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Interior
Projects
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Sump
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Contain Water Intrusion
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& Patio
Cleaning
& Stripping
Power
Washing
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Your Deck
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Energy
Related Tips
Savings
for the summer
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the winter
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(Reach In)
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(Walk In)
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Out
Of The Normal
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Types
of Caulk - Before you can even think about caulking, you
need to know what type of caulk you want to use. Things to consider is
where the caulk will be and if it'll be painted over. If the caulk is
going to be used in a bathroom, you'll be wise to use a caulk that has
a mildew inhibitor.
A
tube of quality silicone caulk can run you about $5.00 and change while
a latex caulk might cost $3.00. Each has it's own purpose and you shouldn't
base your purchase on cost.
Types
of Caulks and Sealants
|
Silicone
(household)
|
Adhesion
Good to Excellent
|
Cost
High
|
Shrinkage
Little or None
|
| Clean
up |
Dry
Cloth if immediate. Mineral spirits or naphtha |
| Comments: |
Used
for bath and kitchen. Some have mold and mildew inhibitors. Forms
an adhesive for tiles and metal fixtures. Seals metal joints as
in plumbing and gutters.
Flexible:
cured silicone allows for stretching of joints up to 3 times it's
normal width or compression of 1/2 the width.
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|
Silicone
(construction) |
Adhesion
Good to Excellent
|
Cost
High
|
Shrinkage
Little or None
|
|
Clean
up
|
Dry
Cloth if immediate. Mineral spirits or naphtha
|
| Comments: |
Seals
most dissimilar building materials such as wood and stone, metal
flashing, and brick.
Permits
joints to stretch or compress. Silicones will stick to painted surfaces,
but paint will not adhere to most cured silicones.
|
|
| Latex |
Adhesion
Good to Excellent
|
Cost
Moderate
|
Shrinkage
5% to 10%
|
| Clean
up |
Water |
| Comments: |
Seals
joints around tub and shower. Fills cracks in tile, plaster, glass
and plastic; fills nail holes.
Easy
to use. Can be smoothed with a moist finger or tool. Water resistant
when dry. Can be painted. Is less elastic than silicone. Varied
durability ranging from 2 to 10 years. Will not adhere to metal.
Very little flexibility when cured. Must be painted when used on
exteriors.
|
|
|
Foam
Sealant
(water based) |
Adhesion
Good to Excellent
|
Cost
High
|
Expansion
to only 25%
|
| Clean
up |
Water |
| Comments: |
Used
around window and door frames in new construction. Smaller cracks.
Where over expansion is a problem.
Takes
24 hours to cure. Cures to a soft consistency. Water-based foam
production does not produce greenhouse gases. Will not over-expand
to bend windows. Must be exposed to the air to dry. Not useful on
larger gaps because curing becomes difficult.
|
|
Foam
Spray
(expandable) |
Adhesion
Good to Excellent
|
Cost
Moderate to High
|
Expansion
is extensive
|
| Clean
up |
Solvent
such as lacquer thinner, if immediate |
| Comments: |
Expands
when curing. Is good for larger cracks indoors or outdoors. Use
in nonfriction areas as rubber becomes rubbery and powdery over
time.
Spray-foam
quickly expands to fit larger shaped gaps. Is flexible. Can be applied
at various temperatures. Must be painted for exterior use to protect
foam from ultraviolet radiation. Manufacturing process produces
greenhouse gases.
|
|
| Butyl
Rubber |
Adhesion
Good to Excellent
|
Cost
Moderate to High
|
Shrinkage
5% to 30%
|
| Clean
up |
Mineral
spirits or naphtha |
| Comments: |
Seals
most dissimilar materials such as glass, metal, plastic, wood, and
concrete. Seals around windows and flashing. Bonds loose shingles.
Durable
for 10 or more years. Is resilient and not brittle. Can be painted
after curing for one week. Variable shrinkage. May require two applications.
Does not adhere well to painted surfaces.
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Application of Caulk- Before
applying the new caulk, remove old caulk or paint residue remaining
around a window using a putty knife, stiff brush, or special solvent.
After old caulk is removed, new caulk can then be applied to all joints
in the window frame and the joint between the frame and the wall.
The best time to caulk is during dry weather when the outdoor temperature
is above 45 degrees Fahrenheit. Low humidity is important during the
application to prevent cracks from swelling with moisture. Warm temperatures
are also necessary so the caulk will set properly and adhere to the
surface.
Although caulking is not a high-tech operation, it can be tricky. Taking
your time and following the tips listed at the top right of this page
can make the caulking job go easier and look nicer. You local home improvement
center may sell caulk removal tools. This little tool is run down the
caulk after it's applied and removes residual caulk, making a smooth
and even caulk line.
For
more enery savings informtion, visit the US Department of Energy at http://www.energy.gov/index.htm.
Special thanks for the department for supplying some of the information
used on this page.

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Hold
the gun at a consistent angle. 45 degrees is best for getting the caulk
deep into the crack. You know you've got the right angle when the caulk
is immediately forced into the crack as it comes out of the gun.
Caulk
in one straight and continuous stream, if possible. Avoid stops and
starts.
Make
sure the caulk sticks to both sides of a crack or seam.
Release
the trigger before pulling the gun away to avoid applying too much caulking
compound. A caulk gun with an automatic release makes this much easier.
Don't
skimp. If caulk shrinks, reapply it to form a smooth bead that will
seal the crack completely.
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