HOME IMPROVEMENT TIPS, ADVICE, AND RESOURCES
Enhancing your Home and your Lifestyle
     


  Interior Projects
    Fireplace Makeover
    Hardwood Flooring
    Staining Your Tile Grout
    Caulk & Caulking

  Bathroom Facelift
    Vanities & Sinks
    Vanity Tops
    Faucets
    Tub/Shower Doors
    Medicine Cabinets
    Floor Tile
    Electrical & Lighting
    Walls & Ceiling
    Accessories
 
  Basement Tips
    Lighting Techniques
    Sump Pumps
    Contain Water Intrusion

  Deck & Patio
    Cleaning & Stripping
    Power Washing
    Staining Your Deck

    Furnishing Your Patio

  Energy Related Tips
    Savings for the summer

    Savings for the winter
    Hot Water Savings
 
  Home Security
    General Security Tips
    Security Lighting
    Security Cameras
    Lock Bumping
 
  Storage Solutions
    Closet (Reach In)
    Closet (Walk In)
    Pantry
    Basement

  Out Of The Normal
    Hockey Centerpieces
    Winter Cat Shelter

Types of Caulk - Before you can even think about caulking, you need to know what type of caulk you want to use. Things to consider is where the caulk will be and if it'll be painted over. If the caulk is going to be used in a bathroom, you'll be wise to use a caulk that has a mildew inhibitor.

A tube of quality silicone caulk can run you about $5.00 and change while a latex caulk might cost $3.00. Each has it's own purpose and you shouldn't base your purchase on cost.

Types of Caulks and Sealants

Silicone
(household)

Adhesion
Good to Excellent
Cost
High
Shrinkage
Little or None
Clean up Dry Cloth if immediate. Mineral spirits or naphtha
Comments:

Used for bath and kitchen. Some have mold and mildew inhibitors. Forms an adhesive for tiles and metal fixtures. Seals metal joints as in plumbing and gutters.

Flexible: cured silicone allows for stretching of joints up to 3 times it's normal width or compression of 1/2 the width.


Silicone
(construction)
Adhesion
Good to Excellent
Cost
High
Shrinkage
Little or None
Clean up
Dry Cloth if immediate. Mineral spirits or naphtha
Comments:

Seals most dissimilar building materials such as wood and stone, metal flashing, and brick.

Permits joints to stretch or compress. Silicones will stick to painted surfaces, but paint will not adhere to most cured silicones.


Latex
Adhesion
Good to Excellent
Cost
Moderate
Shrinkage
5% to 10%
Clean up Water
Comments:

Seals joints around tub and shower. Fills cracks in tile, plaster, glass and plastic; fills nail holes.

Easy to use. Can be smoothed with a moist finger or tool. Water resistant when dry. Can be painted. Is less elastic than silicone. Varied durability ranging from 2 to 10 years. Will not adhere to metal. Very little flexibility when cured. Must be painted when used on exteriors.


Foam Sealant
(water based)
Adhesion
Good to Excellent
Cost
High
Expansion
to only 25%
Clean up Water
Comments:

Used around window and door frames in new construction. Smaller cracks. Where over expansion is a problem.

Takes 24 hours to cure. Cures to a soft consistency. Water-based foam production does not produce greenhouse gases. Will not over-expand to bend windows. Must be exposed to the air to dry. Not useful on larger gaps because curing becomes difficult.


Foam Spray
(expandable)
Adhesion
Good to Excellent
Cost
Moderate to High
Expansion
is extensive
Clean up Solvent such as lacquer thinner, if immediate
Comments:

Expands when curing. Is good for larger cracks indoors or outdoors. Use in nonfriction areas as rubber becomes rubbery and powdery over time.

Spray-foam quickly expands to fit larger shaped gaps. Is flexible. Can be applied at various temperatures. Must be painted for exterior use to protect foam from ultraviolet radiation. Manufacturing process produces greenhouse gases.


Butyl Rubber
Adhesion
Good to Excellent
Cost
Moderate to High
Shrinkage
5% to 30%
Clean up Mineral spirits or naphtha
Comments:

Seals most dissimilar materials such as glass, metal, plastic, wood, and concrete. Seals around windows and flashing. Bonds loose shingles.

Durable for 10 or more years. Is resilient and not brittle. Can be painted after curing for one week. Variable shrinkage. May require two applications. Does not adhere well to painted surfaces.


Application of Caulk- Before applying the new caulk, remove old caulk or paint residue remaining around a window using a putty knife, stiff brush, or special solvent. After old caulk is removed, new caulk can then be applied to all joints in the window frame and the joint between the frame and the wall.

The best time to caulk is during dry weather when the outdoor temperature is above 45 degrees Fahrenheit. Low humidity is important during the application to prevent cracks from swelling with moisture. Warm temperatures are also necessary so the caulk will set properly and adhere to the surface.

Although caulking is not a high-tech operation, it can be tricky. Taking your time and following the tips listed at the top right of this page can make the caulking job go easier and look nicer. You local home improvement center may sell caulk removal tools. This little tool is run down the caulk after it's applied and removes residual caulk, making a smooth and even caulk line.


For more enery savings informtion, visit the US Department of Energy at http://www.energy.gov/index.htm. Special thanks for the department for supplying some of the information used on this page.


Hold the gun at a consistent angle. 45 degrees is best for getting the caulk deep into the crack. You know you've got the right angle when the caulk is immediately forced into the crack as it comes out of the gun.

Caulk in one straight and continuous stream, if possible. Avoid stops and starts.

Make sure the caulk sticks to both sides of a crack or seam.

Release the trigger before pulling the gun away to avoid applying too much caulking compound. A caulk gun with an automatic release makes this much easier.

Don't skimp. If caulk shrinks, reapply it to form a smooth bead that will seal the crack completely.

At Home is presented to you as a source of information. Never attempt any project you are not comfortable with and consult your local building department for any remodeling projects you choose to undertake. If you hire a contractor, consult your State Division of Consumer Affairs and be sure to obtain a Certificate of Insurance before the job is started.

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